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Tile Baseboards – Correctly Fixing the Tile Baseboards With Adhesive

With your tube of adhesive inserted and flowing right out of your shotgun, and your tile baseboards already cut to size, you are now ready to begin attaching tile baseboards to the wall. As a rule of thumb to have a nice cosmetic finish, in the most visible parts of your room use the cut tiles that still have the factory-finished edges surrounding three of the four sides. Save the center cuts for hidden areas or alcoves where they are less visible, as these will only have factory finished edges on both short sides.

Keeping the factory edge facing up when installing tile baseboards, lay the tile upside down on the floor, and then apply a “snake” line of adhesive to the underside using the caulk gun. Don’t put too much glue on the underside though, and try to stay away from the edges of the tile. This will soon spread as the tile baseboard is pressed firmly into place.

Once applied, release the pressure from the gun to prevent the contents from continuously flowing. Some adhesive may still ooze out when this is done, so the best thing to do is place the nozzle over the next tile to be attached to the wall. That way, none of your adhesive will go to waste, and you’ll avoid it sticking to your fresh floor tile. The chemicals in the glue will stain the grout if given half a chance to fall on it, so try to contain drips as best you can.

Slide the tile baseboard up to the area on the wall where it needs to be placed, making sure it matches the tiles, and turn the tile against the wall. Press firmly, moving slightly from left to right to get an even spread, and then adhere to the existing grout lines. No tile spacers are needed in this job, so if there are small tiles, just line them up as best you can using your eye, and the glue to quickly hold them in place.

Continue as planned with the rest of the tiles, and since the glue dries very quickly, it’s actually possible to start inlaying the gaps within about half an hour, or the time you need to apply all the baseboards. To be safe though, wait a little longer to avoid tile movement if there is no rush to finish the job. If you decide to install transition pieces along the edge, you must do so while the glue is still workable, These will give the baseboards a better finish and hide any visible cuts other than factory finished edges, although they are not absolutely necessary and you will find , that applying silicon caking can be just as effective with less expense.

One final tip: when installing tile baseboards in a room where the floor can expand or change, for example, the second floor of a house, it might be wise to insert a “breathing” gap. This is simply done by leaving a space between the tile baseboard and the tile, and can be done by using tile spacers between the two to raise the tile slightly as little as 1/8″ inch, to then be filled with silicone caulk. If floors did have the ability to shift and expand, then you may find that tile baseboards in direct contact with floor tiles may tend to pop out of the wall due to this unseen force and effort within the building of the structure.

With your tile baseboards firmly in place, you can then either choose to fully inlay them if transition pieces are used to finish the visible top edge, or simply apply silicone sealant. The latter option will quickly fill lines and hide any gaps, and also apply a waterproof seal to them where they are attached to the wall. This type of tile is fairly inexpensive and comes in a variety of colors suitable to match your tile design. Again using your caulking gun to apply silicone, fill the holes and then simply wipe and shape gently with your index finger in continuous, even and single strokes.

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