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How to Breed Ball Pythons

The purpose of this article is to increase your chances of success in raising ball pythons. I’m going to lay out some quick and easy tips that will help you on your way to success in raising these wonderful animals.

Right Gender – Make sure your animals are properly sexed, and you actually have a male and a female. There are two ways to determine the sex of a ball python one is by “explosion” and the other is by “probing.” In my opinion blasting is the easier method between the two, it requires no tools and there is no danger or harm to the animal. Probing a ball python requires you to insert a metal probe behind the tail into the left or right side of the sewer. Once the probe is inserted, you take a scale count to determine the sex of the animal. Males usually probe quite deeply about 8 or more subcaudal scales and females probe about 2-4 subcaudal scales. I will cover more detailed instructions on how to determine the gender of your snake in another article, if for whatever reason you are not confident in determining the gender of your animals, find a qualified reptile vet in your area for help.

Sexual Maturity – Males and females become sexually mature at different ages and weigh. Sexual maturity in ball pythons appears to be more determined by weight rather than age of the animal although age most definitely plays a role in sexual maturity. Females usually mature around two to three years and 1200-1500 grams of weight, some may mature a little faster or a little later but the gross majority will mature at this age and weight. Males mature much faster than females and usually mature between 6 months – 1 year although I have had some young males breed as early as twelve weeks! Breeding weight for males varies in the area of ​​400 grams for the small guys to 800 or more grams for the larger first time breeders.

Seasonal Change and Temperature Drop – In the wild, ball pythons are seasonal animals and typically breed between October and December in the rainy season, where egg-laying season is around March and April. Baby ball pythons start to hatch and take their first meals after the rainy season when prey is plentiful. Now in captivity, they can be reproduced every year, but having some seasonal change and temperature drop increases your chances of having maximum production. I like to start gradually dropping my temperatures in November by a degree or two each week until I get my viewing temperature down 5-7 degrees at night from my daytime highs, which in the off season are 85-87 degrees. In the breeding season I go down to 80 degrees at night low on the hottest side of the tub for three or four months and then I go back up to my off season temperatures of 85-87 degrees.

Pair them up for Breeding – Once you are determined that you do in fact have a male and a female and they are at the age and weight of sexual maturity, it is time to start mating those animals to breed. I introduce my males into my female’s tanks and not the other way around because female ball pythons release a lot of pheromones during the breeding season and those pheromones are great at signaling male ball pythons that it’s time to breed. After I introduce the male to the female, I leave the pair undisturbed for 24 hours, after which I check to see if they are actively breeding, if they are, I give them another 24 hours, if they are not, I move the male to the next one. female tub and start the process over. After the male has successfully mated with a female I offer him a small meal, which is usually a small rat and a 48 hour rest. When he is well rested, I repeat the process. I continue this process of mating my males with females until the females have either ovulated or it is clear that they will not produce for the season.

Ovulation – Being able to correctly identify an ovulating female ball python is extremely useful during breeding for maximum production. Here are some quick tips to help you identify active ovulation and a female that has already ovulated.

Identify Active Ovulation – A female ball python that is actively ovulating will have a very noticeable swelling on the lower 3rd part of its body; she might even look like she just ate a big meal. You’ll also notice that her tail is suctioned to her body in an awkward “L” shape. That classic position is known as the “Suck” to veteran ball python breeders and is a great indicator that the female is in the process of ovulation.

Ovulation has occurred – If you happen to miss active ovulation, all is not lost, and you can still tell if your female ball python has ovulated with these quick tips. First, just watch her for a few days and see where she spends most of her time. Is it on the cool end of the tub or hot end? If it is on the hot end of the tub, then it is likely that your female has already ovulated and does not need to be bred anymore. If she still looks for the cooler end of the tub and wraps the bowl, it’s pretty good that your female has not ovulated and she still needs to be bred.

Egg Laying and Incubation – After ovulation your female ball python no longer needs to be paired with a male and you can start setting up the incubator and making arrangements for the ball python pups. Exactly about three weeks after ovulation she will go into a shedding cycle known to veteran breeders as the “POS” which stands for “post-ovulation”. Following the “POS” you are looking at about 30-40 days until your female lays eggs.

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