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Hello from Austria – Classical Music, Hiking & Summer Tobogganing & Two Delicious Backyard Feasts

After just a beautiful day on the Alpine peaks on the Austrian / Italian / Slovenian border, the weather gods were not so kind yesterday. It rained and drizzled almost all day and I spent a relaxing day in my hometown, visiting with friends and running errands. The big excitement was reserved for the evening: a live concert in the Kunsthaus Weiz, a newly built multi-purpose performance venue. My sister-in-law Anneliese and I were preparing for an evening of classical music that would feature works by Mozart, Strauss and Verdi.

A little before 19:30 we walked into the concert hall and could only find two separate seats in a packed venue. Many local dignitaries attended, and this was an important event in Weiz’s social calendar. The concert was organized by the Weiz Lions Club as a fundraising event and the concert featured the AIMS Festival Orchestra and Soloists. AIMS stands for “American Institute of Musical Studies”, a Graz-based organization that offers six-week long programs in Voice Lessons, Opera and Lieder Training, Master Classes, Foreign Language Diction, Conversational German and career-related courses for professional musicians, pianists and singers

Twelve young sopranos, two mezzo-sopranos, two baritones and six tenors performed pieces from “The Magic Flute” by Mozart, “Die Fledermaus” by Johann Strauss and “La Traviata” by Giuseppe Verdi. The music these young artists produced was indeed magical and we marveled at the talent of the singers, none of whom appeared to be much older than 25 years old. The president, Andrea Huber, an American of Swiss heritage, led us through the evening. Andrea herself is a highly respected soprano who is now based in Germany and also teaches for AIMS.

The orchestra was directed by Edoardo Müller, a famous conductor who has conducted in many of the most prominent opera and concert halls around the world, including those of Paris, Rome, Barcelona, ​​Munich as well as Tokyo and Santiago de Chile. His North American assignments include the New York Opera, the Lyric Opera of Chicago, the Dallas Opera, the Seattle Opera and the San Francisco Opera. Most of the musicians in the orchestra were also in their early twenties.

I was deeply moved by the beauty of this music, and I was also delighted by the notion that all these international music students, most of whom hailed from the United States, had gathered in Europe to hone their craft and pursue their passion. As I learned from talking to some of the AIMS performers after the concert, the AIMS program not only provides an excellent opportunity for elite musical training, but also a cross-cultural experience that will create memories of a lifetime. In my conversations with five or six of the AIMS students I learned that they come from places like Boston, California, Rochester and even as far away as China. They all confirmed that they were extremely well received in Graz and that they had the time of their lives, hoping that this European experience would launch their careers in classical music.

In total the concert raised 15,000 Euros for local poor families, and the event was a resounding fundraising success. I even met one of my old high school teachers, a sports and geography teacher who was extremely popular with the students. I hadn’t seen him for almost 30 years, but I recognized him immediately. He still had the same bright smile as three decades ago, and although I had to jog his memory a bit, his face lit up when he remembered our class. Anneliese and I left the concert on a high and celebrated the experience with a nightcap at a local cafe called Weberhaus. I thought that a small town like Weiz, with a population of less than 10,000, would offer such high-caliber programming, the quality of which was truly at an international level.

So after an evening of high culture, a more physical and culinary program was on the menu today. I started the day off with another photo safari through my hometown of Weiz, and explored the Taborkirche, which is dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury. The Romanesque church was first mentioned in a document in 1188 and expanded in the late 1300s with a Gothic altar area.

Until the late 1600s, impressive walls and watchtowers surrounded the church, giving it a defensive character and enabling the local population to find safety within the complex, which was particularly important during the Turkish invasions during the 1500s. The churchyard has several tombstones from the Roman era, indicating that this area was actively settled over 2,000 years ago although much older prehistoric remains have been found in the surrounding areas as well. The so-called Celtic Village on the nearby Kulm Mountain is the first open-air prehistoric museum in the province of Styria and illustrates that this area has been inhabited since prehistoric times.

While walking through the Main Square of Weiz I ran into two old acquaintances, my neighbors mother whom I hadn’t seen for at least 20 years and a friend from my former volleyball team whom I hadn’t seen for over two decades like well. I’ve lived in Toronto for almost 21 years now, but it was great to see these familiar faces again and reconnect after such a long time.

At 9:30 I went to visit Klaudia, one of my best friends from high school, at her parents’ house. Our other schoolmate Doris was already there and it was great to see them both again, more than 23 years after we graduated from high school. After the initial hugs and kisses and how-are-you we started walking up the local hill, the Weizberg. Our walk took us through the local cemetery where we admired a very famous grave: the final resting place of Aurelia Schwarzenegger, Arnold’s mother, who was a long-time resident of Weiz.

Klaudia even mentioned that her father happened to meet Mrs. Schwarzenegger at the cemetery a few years ago, but she collapsed from a heart attack. My friend’s father called the ambulance which gave her emergency treatment and took her to the hospital. She passed away soon after and Arnold Schwarzenegger sent a letter of thanks to the ambulance staff and also to Klaudia’s father, to thank him for getting help for his mother. Proof that in this city, real life celebrity relationships are just steps away…

We continued our walk to the impressive baroque Weizbergkirche. Right next to the church is the so-called “Kräutergarten” (herb garden) which was created by a group of local residents (including Klaudia’s mum) which has a wide variety of local herbs, many of which are used in the regional cuisine. Then we took the romantic staircase down the hill, a path we walked many times as children. Our local walk took us past our former high school where we discussed fond memories of our school years.

One of the highlights of our high school careers was two choir trips to Germany, to our partner school in Offenburg, where the two school choirs performed classical songs together. We most fondly remembered the actual concert where for the final both school choirs appeared together to sing the last song together. Screaming our lungs out among 120 singers from two different countries was an exciting experience, and not surprisingly my passions for intercultural exchanges ignited at an early age.

After we returned to Klaudia’s parents, Doris left and the rest of us started preparing a good meal, and I, not talented in the kitchen at all, put on the apron and started cutting and chopping everything necessary. (Good thing I wasn’t responsible for some really important tasks…) Klaudia’s mom prepared a delicious meal for more than 10 people in no time and we soon sat down in the garden to eat some Austrian specialties: we tasted. “Bröselknödelsuppe” (breadcrumbs in a clear beef broth), stuffed green peppers and delicious potatoes with caramelized onions.

Because of this tasty but large caloric injection, we had to do some exercise and decided to hike up the Schöckel, at more than 1400 m the highest local mountain. Around 2pm we met up with Doris again and all three of us broke out our Nordic walking poles and we attacked the mountain from its steepest side. Doris, an experienced hiker, led the group at a somewhat hellish pace, and the two of us climbed behind her. Some areas were so steep that we had to use our hands to stop ourselves from climbing between the rocks. But our walking sticks certainly helped on the ascent and about an hour later we were rewarded with an amazing 360 degree view over the Styrian hills and mountains.

The Schöckel is also referred to as the “Grazer Hausberg” or local mountain of Graz, and we had excellent views down into the Styrian capital and the Mur Valley. To the south stretched the Austrian and Slovenian plains, looking east and to the right saw the foothills of eastern and western Styria, and to the north we took in the panorama of the more impressive mountains of the Styrian Alps. We also saw several ramps for paragliders, a popular activity in this region.

We passed some quiet cows grazing on the mountain pastures and reached the summit area, which is the location of the top station of the cable car, a couple of restaurants and a summer sledding area. The weather today was brilliant and many serious hikers, mountain bikers and tourists gathered at the summit. We were quite fascinated by the summer sledding and Doris suggested I try it.

Well, I was always a bit brave and she didn’t have to say it twice. She even jumped for my euro 2.50 round, and a few minutes later I was sitting in the steel “wagon of death”, ready for my hair-raising descent down the serpentine curves of the course. Actually, the ride was a lot tamer than I expected, and I only occasionally pulled on the brakes, but it was still a very entertaining experience. I figured if I were to do it again, I’d probably try to walk the course without breaking at all.

After the lift pulled my carriage back up to the summit plateau we began walking past the Stubenberghaus, a large mountain restaurant and inn, to the summit cross which provides a beautiful view north into the Upper Styrian mountain region. I’ve always loved mountains, and seeing peak after peak after peak was just a great experience. We then started walking back to the car and our trek back down was considerably easier than the torturous climb up. We stopped at Doris’ beautiful country house on the way back where we admired her newly created garden pond and her new dog. Equipped with beautiful ripe Styrian peaches from Doris’s family’s farm we returned to Weiz and I dropped Klaudia off.

About an hour later we were reunited when Klaudia, her husband and two children, her parents, her sister Andrea and her daughters Nina and Katja arrived at my brother’s. Tonight we all gathered for a great barbecue, and my brother Ewald, the passionate chef, had some special treats waiting for us. Anneliese, my sister-in-law, helped with the preparations all afternoon.

After some initial chat we started with a delicious vegetable soup, and then my brother started preparing the main course: 13 whole joints of coals waiting to be grilled in a large pan on an open fire. Ewald had already marinated the fish in a special mixture of herbs and spices all day. Delicate young potatoes were to accompany the fish, and a solid Styrian salad with pumpkin seed oil rounded off the main course. A delicious raspberry parfait provided the sweet final note to our culinary symphony.

So despite some rainy weather yesterday, I had a wonderful few days that included classical music, hiking, meeting good friends and an amazing array of gastronomic delights. Now there is only one more full day of my trip to Austria, and tomorrow we will explore one of Styria’s medieval treasures: the Riegersburg, a massive fortress on a basalt outcrop dating from the 10th century, often referred to as the “strongest fortress of Christianity” because it was never conquered.

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